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Vol. XLIV PHILADELPHIA, SEPTEMBER 1863 No.3. |
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SOME EXQUISITE DRESSES were lately made, in Paris, to be worn at the imperial court at Fontainbleau. The morning half-toilets were especially picturesque, and might, with scarcely any alteration, have figured in a picture of Watteau. White is more worn this season than it has been for a long time, and some of the most elegant of these dresses consisted of white cambric tulle worn over a light-colored taffetas petticoat, either mauve, blue or mais being the favorite shades so employed, and trimmed with entredeux of rich embroidery with Valenciennes edgings, the collet or vest to be worn over the dress being similarly ornamented, with knots of ribbon to match, and wide-flowing sashes of the same color. Loops of ribbon with knots are so arranged as to be used to raise up the dresses in festoons all round the under skirt; a deep lace frilling terminates the taffetas under-dress. One of these morning dresses, which could not be worn after four o'clock, could not be produced under eight hundred francs, or the small sum of one hundred and sixty dollars of our money. At Worth and Boberg, it is said that a foreign lady, remarkable both for her wit and original toilets, has entered into a regular arrangement to be supplied with a certain number of dresses and costumes, to be worn but once or twice, and then returned to their fabricators, who, probably, with a little altering and touching up, easily find means of disposing them to persons eager to imitate the aristocracy. BALL AND PARTY DRESSES. -- Ball dresses, in Paris, are worn very elaborately trimmed; tunics are universal, cut to the knee in front and sloping down at the back. Underneath the tunic there are four, and sometimes five well trimmed skirts. The form of head-dress depends entirely upon the arrangement of the hair, but the two popular styles are the high wreath (high in front and sloping down into two long ends at the back), and the spray at the left side, also extending into a tapering branch at the back. But whether sprays or wreaths are worn, they are all mounted upon gutta percha, which gives the appearance of natural stems to the flowers, and is much more pliable and manageable than the old-fashioned wire mountings. Humming-birds and their nests, dragon flies, and butterflies were much worn, both in Paris and London, during the winter and spring seasons. In wreaths and head-dresses these appeared eccentric adornments when they were first introduced, but they have been replaced by something more eccectric still. These are not artificial productions, but are dried and prepared for the purpose. A GOOD HINT. -- Send your little child to bed happy. Whatever cares press, give it a warm good-night kiss as it goes to its pillow. The memory of this, in the stormy years which fate may have in store for the little one, will be like Bethlehem's star to the bewildered sheperds. TIGHT LACING -- It is no longer the fashion in Paris to lace-in or tighten the figure. Ladies have at last discovered the folly of such a dangerous proceeding, and now a slight, waspish waist is considered very ugly. Stays are therefore worn very low and very light, and have but few bones in them. The Empress and many other ladies wear stays composed of white moire; they are also made of white taffetas, and of pearl-gray moire, stitched with violet, coral, or blue silk. Simpler and less expensive stays are made of white coutil, with embroidered insertion, and edged round the top with narrow Valenciennes lace. Now that skirts and opetticoats are all cut on the cross, and that there is no fullness on the hips, but all is as flat as possible; crinolines are shaped to correspond. Ladies appear to approve of the styles of dresses of the First Empire, and imitate them at least in the upper part. The upper petticoat is ornamented more or less, but it is always made in the same manner--entirely plain in front, and cut with points or gores to avoid any plaits upon the hops, the whole of the fullness being gathered in at the back, where they are very wide. Commencing at the sides, and continuing round the back, a deep flounce is arranged in very small plaits, which is starched well. CLOSED SLEEVE FOR MORNING DRESSES. -- The lining and outer portion of this sleeve are cut the same shape and are gathered into a plain piece underneath the epaulet. The fullness at the bottom near the wrist is confined by means of three double box plaits, over which two rows of quilling are placed. to keep the plaits in their proper position. The epaulet in the center is rather deep, and cut up on each side in a square shape, the whole being trimmed with quillings. The shape of this sleeve is very becoming to any style of figure; it is quite full enough to be pretty, and yet would not increase the width of the figure, the plain epaulet at the top giving the desired sloping appearance to the shoulders. THE LATEST CASE OF ABSENCE OF MIND. -- The Peru (Ind.) Republican says: -- "One of our lady friends received her copy of 'Peterson' for July, last Monday, and as she started away from the post-office commenced reading, and became so absorbed that she thought of nothing else. She continued to read and walk, unconscious of time and space, till she was spoken to by an acquaintance full three miles from town. On examinging 'Peterson' we do not blame the lady; but such absence of mind for any other reason, we should think wholly inexcusable."
OUR NEW COOK-BOOK.
Potato Puree. -- Roast
six large potatoes. Make a hole in the top of each. When well
roasted, scoop all the insides into a bowl. Mash them well with a
little boiled milk or cream. Add salt, cayenne, and an egg, well
beaten all together. Put the mixture again carefully into the hole
of each potato skin, and bake them twenty minutes, serve up on a dish,
with a napkin covering them all over, very hot.
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CHINES
are decidedly the newest and most fashionable silks. What are called
chintz chines are the favorite designs for young ladies. If silks
of one color are purchased, the Alexandra, Mexican, and Leman-blue, or
the leather or hazel-brown in all varieties of shade, are the two colors
which are sought after; but should a chine silk be desired, then a light
mauve has the preference. The new style of moire antique is daily
gaining favor, and no wonder, for the plain ones have been worn for so
many years that every one may fairly be said to be tired of them.
The new ones have all patterns on them worked in, when on the loom, sometimes
in raised velvet, and sometimes in satin. These designs, although
occasionally fantastic, are generally very elegant, the fern and palm leaves
being particularly attractive.
THE DRESS-MAKERS ARE ALL IN DESPAIR FOR A NEW STYLE OF BODICE -- the close-fitting, high form has been now so long in vogue that they are tired of making it. The sleeves have lately undergone a change, being now invariably worn almost tight to the arm; but the bodice only changes its style by the manner in which the trimming is arranged -- there is no new cut. There are two forms which should only be worn by slight figures. The first is called the Princess' shape. In this the bodice and skirt are both in one piece, ther being no seam or division at the waist. The second shape is known by a variety of names. It is made tight to the waist, but decends below it about two inches, straight round the hips. The Postillion bodice, with a small swallow-tail basque at the back, and with two points in front, and the Spanish veste style, are more becoming to the generality of figures. These forms are not novel; they have been introduced for some months, but as yet have not been succeeded by any other. For muslin or any very light material, especially for evening wear, plain bodies, half-low and cut square at the top, are much worn. A white muslin chemisette, with narrow plaits, is worn inside. Young girls wear the chemise Russe trimmed with insertions and small tucks, with the graceful Swiss bodice in black silk. This bodice is low, with a point in front, and trimmed with pinked ruches: it has no sleeves, but only epaulets, the sleeves of the chemise Russe being full and long. SLEEVES are all narrow, not tight to the arm, but about as loose as a gentleman's coat sleeve. For afternoon wear many of the sleeves are left open as far as the elbow, so that the embroidered muslin or lace under-sleeves may be seen. All white under-sleeves should be cut in the same narrow form as the upper sleeves, otherwise they will cause a bulky appearance to the arm which should be avoided. THE SKIRTS of silk dresses are all gored; the fashion of ornamenting all the seams, up their entire length, is decidedly on the increase, but this should only be done when the skirt is gored, for the reason that when the seams are left their full breadth some of the trimming would be hidden when plaiting it up to the waist, and this is obviated when the skirt is gored and shaped to the firure. THE SKIRTS of many taffetas dresses have lately been trimmed down each breadth. A very stylish one we saw was composed of green taffetas, and upon the seam of each breadth was laid a band of black ribbon velvet about two inches wide, with large white silk buttons at equal distances upon it. Round the edge of the skirt there was a plaited flounce of green silk piped with black; the black velvet upon the seams was carried as far as the top of the flounce at the back, but was graduated at the sides and upon the two front breadths reached only as far as the knees, where they were finished off with frog buttons made of black and white silk. The generality of skirts are gored, and the effect should be as nearly the shape of a bell as possible. Many new taffetas have been made lately with one breadth of a different color inserted in the front; for example, a black and white checked taffetas would have a breadth of Mexican blue taffetas inseerted in the front, the checked taffetas being rounded off down the sides as a tunic, whilst the bottom of the skirt would be ornamented all round with a black and blue ruche. This is an excellent style for widening a narrow dress. GIMP is decidedly the most fashionable trimming for dresses; frequently it is employed as braid to form a design round the bottom of the skirt, above the hem; epaulets are made entirely of gimp with a jet fringe, jet beads being also introduced in the gimp network which forms the heading. This style of epaulets is newer than those which are made of the material of the dress, and trimmed to correspond with the rest. Swiss sashes are also made of gimp, likewise ornaments for the seams of skirts; skirts are generally finished off with tassels. When the Swiss sash is worn, made either of gimp, or of guipure lace over white silk, a small basque is also added to the back o f the bodice; this is usually arranged with hollow plaits. Three or four rows of black taffetas ruches, about six inches apart, sewn round the skirt in a waved form; rows of black guipure insertion lined with white, or one row of thick silk girdle cord round the edge, are also different fashionable styles of trimming now in vogue for the skirts of dresses. COLLARS AND CUFFS are more or less trimmed with lace according as the toilet is more or less dressy; those made of white linen are now finished off with an edge of fine narrow lace, sewn on without any fullness; these are for demi-toilet. For paying or receiving visits, embroidered muslin collars and sleeves are worn. The collars which are fastened in front with an embroidered muslin bow edged with Valenciennes lace, are still much in vogue, as are also the Anna of Austria collars formed with squares of Valenciennes and Mechlin lace, separated with strips of muslin stitched at each edge. The sleeves in every case match with the collar, and are cut with a seam to the elbow, so as to correspond with the form of the dress sleeve. IN BLACK SILK MANTLES there are three forms which appear to be equally popular--the short loose paletot trimmed with thick ruches of black silk. These are principally worn by very young girls. Then there are the half-fitting jackets, which the French call casaques or basquines; these are cut to reach the knee in front, but are longer in proportion at the back. Much more care and skill are requisite to cut and make one of these casaques than is the case with the loose-fitting paletat, and unless they are well cut, they prove very unbecoming to the wearer. They are always made in rich black mantle silk, and should be cut so as to follow and define the lines of the figure without fitting it too closely.
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Black
Maltese fichus are very generally worn over these casaques; these
reach to the waist at the back where the point is rounded. When these
fichu,
there is an infinite variety in the style of ornamentation. Small
loops of black ribbon about an inch wide are arranged round the neck, down
the outside of the sleeve, and all round the skirt, gimp with jet beads
introduced, and a tagged fringe round the top of the sleeves, is also a
very general ornament for them. Black silk ruches, and occasionally
the stamped-out leather trimmings, are also to be seen upon these casaques.
The third form of black silk covering is the large circular mantle; some of these are made plain, and others with three box-plaits at the back. BONNETS are decidedly worn much smaller in front, and are not disfigured by the heavy amount of ornaments over the forehead and on the top of the bonnet, so hideous and unbecoming last winter. Very light tulle mingled with either drooping lily of the valley, or light-feathers, are now arranged under the rim; while the outside of the bonnet generally has the bouquet of flowers, feathers, or ribbons, placed so as to fall backward on the cape. Oats, barley, and rye, both green and of their natural shades, are very much used for trimming straw, and horse-hair bonnets, a light yellow, called Turkish corn, being the color most in favor for strings and capes. When the MARIE STUART shape is thought too decided, a half-handkerchief of lace is frequently arranged so as to fall over twith the point on to the forehead, which produces somewhat of the same effect as when the bonnet is made with a lowered, pointed front, which is the genuine Marie Stuart style. Horse-hair bonnets look very effective trimmed with black lace and fine straw fringe. HEAD-DRESSES are worn rather lower in front than formerly, and the Marie Stuart form of cap is much sought after by those ladies who wear their hair either waved or in short ringlets. A very pretty head-dress is composed of cerise velvet ribbon, edged on each side with black lace; this is carried across the forehead with some buds of the cactus plant, intermingled with black lace leaves; while upon the back hair rests a cactus in full bloom. A head-dress composed of a half-handkershief of black lace, with a bouquet of field flowers, and a ruche of plaid ribbon, has also had much success. Young ladies wear nets made of purple silk, with a coronet of purple crepe lisse round their heads; these are very becoming to dark and pale complexions, but for fair ones the same style is produced in sky-blue and in lilac. THE GLOVES which are now unually worn (except at balls) are those which are known by the name of gants de Suede; they are made to cover the wrists. Nearly all gloves are stitched on the back with black or white. BOOTS for out-door wear are made with gaiters composed of French satin, the small tips are formed with patent leather in the form of a heart, stitched with white silk. Bronze boots are considered the most distinguished; the heels should be narrow, but very high. Many ladies wear satin boots of the exact shade of color as their dress. For the country and watering-places boots made of Russia leather, cut high in the leg, with a silk tassel to ornament the front, will be very popular. French cashmere, or delaine frocks are trimmed with silk of a contrasting color; if the color of the delaine is gray, stone, or fawn, then either blue, green, or violet silk would be employed or ornamentation. The silk is arranged in a band round the bottom of the skirt, the upper edge of this band is scolloped, piped, and edged with narrow black gimp, or lace. There are two small pockets in front of the skirt, and a Swiss band made of blue silk is worn round the waist. Children under seven years of age wear full Garibaldi shirts, or chimise Russes, in white cambric, foulard, or very fine alpaca, embroidered in white or black, with colored skirts. For out-door toilets, little girls wear either round capes of the same material as the dress, and trimmed to correspond with it, or paletots--these latter are made sometimes of black silk, ornamented with gimp, and sometimes also fo the same materail as the dress. For a little boy seven years old, a loose jacket of gray Irish poplin, trimmed with steel buttons; white trousers cut straight, and coming down a little below the knee; collar and cuffs of plain stitched linen; a shite straw hat, trimmed round the crown with a strip of leather, ornamented with steel buttons, and a black feather in front. For a little boy of eight or nine years old, jacket and trounsers in light cloth, drab color, trimmed with braid of the same shade; the jacket opens on a white pique waistcoat; the trousers are straight and not very long, and they are trimmed up the leg with the braid pattern. Another costume for the same consists of a blouse in French merino, fastened round the waist with a leather band; trousers of the same material, full, and gathered in at the knee; Russian boots of soft leather, or drab gaiters for out-doors wear; striped colored stockings and leather shoes for the house. Plain linen collar and cuffs, and black silk cravat. A black straw hat, with velvet round the crown, and a tuft of black and red feathers in front. There is but little change in the form of hats. Very young children wear low-crowned hats, with brims turned up each side, and lined with colored silk. Those for children a few years older have high conical crowns and narrow flat brims, the center of the fronts being ornamented with a tuft of feathers, generally mixed--black with a bright color, such as scarlet.
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