PETERSON'S MAGAZINE
Vol. XLIV          PHILADELPHIA, OCTOBER 1863         No.4.
EDITORIAL CHIT-CHAT
CLUBS FOR 1864 -- Now is the time to begin getting up clubs for next year.  You cannot commence too soon.  Every year ladies write to us that they could have had larger clubs, if they had only begun a little sooner.  Do not make that mistake this year.  Nobody will refuse to subscribe to "Peterson" if applied to soon enough.
SHAPES OF CRINOLINE -- We cannot help remarking in every well-dressed crowd how evident it is that the shape of the crinoline is undergoing a gradual alteration.  Instead of there being the slightest fullness about the hips as formerly, they are now worn as flat as possible, the same rule being observed down the front; all the fullness is thrown at the back, which is contrived by holding the crinoline extended by means of steel or elastic attached to the sides.  For out-door wear the crinoline should be cut with a small train at the back, and for evening in-door wear with a large one.  Under-dresses of thin materials, such as muslins, bareges, etc., two petticoats should be worn over the crinoline, the first made of cambric muslin with a deep hem, a row of embroidery in satin-stitch, and with a few narrow tucks above.  The second petticoat should be made of muslin, and have a deep flounce round the bottom; this should be quite plain in front, but fulled on and slightly train-shaped at the back.  So desirous are many ladies of their skirts being flat in front that those petticoats which are made with several narrow flounces alternating with rows of insertions, have only one flounce, and one row of insertion round the front, the series of rows commencing only at the sides.  all petticoats should be gored to follow the present style of skirts, and the band at the top which is very wide, should be boned in the same manner as a pair of stays, the back breadths being arranged to draw with a casing.
UNIFORMITY OF COLOR, such a remarkable feature in ladies' toilets of the present day, is now carried even to the pocket-handkerchief.  With a mauve dress, the border of a white cambric pocket-handkerchief should be embroidered in mauve cotton, or it should have a mauve vigor vignette.  The small muslin cravats frequently follow nette in each corner; if a blue dress, then a blue border this rule, many of the newest being worked in the same color as the dress with which they are worn.
   Recently , at one of the races which have taken place in France, the Empress wore a black horsehair bonnet, trimmed with a plaid ribbon and a plaid feather.
SAVE A DOLLAR -- Remember that the price of this Magazine is only two dollars, while others of the same rank are three dollars.  That is, everything which a lady wants in a magazine, can be had in "Peterson" for one-third less than in any other first-class magazine.  Tell this to persons you ask to subscribe.
PETTICOAT AND CRINOLINE TRIMMINGS -- It is but a few years ago that even rich ladies were quite contented with simple white cambric or twill petticoats; and provided these were well starched, and ornamented with a hem headed by a few tucks, they troubled themselves but little on the subject.  Gradually, and by slow degrees, the fashion was introduced of ornamenting these simple garments with what the French call "Broderie Anglaise," which is neither more nor less than the open embroidery, where the pattern is traced out in cotton, the center of flowers or leaves cut out, and the outline seamed over.  This style of work, in a very short time, became universally popular; everybody managed to produce endless quantities of it; the Irish took it up enthusiastically, and turned out an astonishing number of yards; the art of making it was taught in all their schools; until, at last, machines were constructed, by the means of which the same effect could be produced at a merely nominal cost.  It then became so common that many people discarded it, and turned to satin-stitch embroidery for the ornamentation of their under garments in general, and for their petticoats in particular.  At first, this was inserted between series of small tucks, and for two seasons no other style of trimming was general; then small flounces made their appearance upon petticoats, and the innovation was looked upon as fussy and unnecessary.  But, in the present day, such a small amount of trimming would be considered ineffective and meagre- looking.  Petticoats are now trimmed even more profusely than dresses, quite as much care and taste being displayed upon the former as upon the latter.
  In the first instance, crinolines do not escape from this trimming mania.  Many of them are made up with small plaited-up, colored braid round the edge.  At a bazaar which was held, lately, at the French Embassy, in London, and at which many tasteful articles of dress were offered to the public, much more elaborate crinolines were on sale.  Some of the white cambric muslin covers, in which the rows of steel were encased, were trimmed in the spaces between the three last rounds with rows of mauve ribbon covered over with white tulle puffings.  This style of crinoline is, of course, on.ly appropriate for evening full dress wear.  The petticoats above the crinoline are now all trimmed; plain simple ones are rarely to be seen.  Those worn under muslin, Chambery gauze, and grenadine dresses, are made of either book or jaconet muslin, and have either one or three flounces round the bottom.  If one flounce, it should be five ore six inches deep, and be arranged in small box-plaits with a heading; if three flounces are preferred, then they should not exceed more than three inches in depth; these are also plaited up with a heading.		  AN EXTRA COPY FOR A PREMIUM -- We shall renew, for next year only, the offer of this year, viz:  a premium copy of "Peterson" to every person who shall send a club.  The club terms, remember, are three copies for $5.00: five copies for $7.50; or eight copies for $10.00.  Whoever will get up either of these clubs, will receive, either an extra copy gratis, or any other of our advertised premiums, as they may prefer.
BALMORALS, ETC.-- Much as some of the English fashions have been laughed at and ridiculed by the Parisions, the fair critics are now adopting many of them.  Balmoral boots, scarlet petticoats, striped woolen petticoats, scarlet stockings, are anything but uncommon sights in Paris.  At Compiegne the guests have all been wearing high-heeled boots.  These boots are made in various ways; of brown kid or morocco leather; also of gray morocco, buttoned up the front with steel buttons, the heels likewise bound with steel; also of black morocco and gilt buttons, with gilded heels.  But more recherche than any of these are the boots made of Russia leather with gilt heels.  With this style of boot a red and white petticoat is frequently worn, and the skirt of the dress is raised, when walking out, by means of cords and rings, so as to form festoons over it.  Now that the cold weather has nearly arrived, knitted vestes are frequently worn over the bodice; but if there is a skirt only, then the wadded and quilted taffetas bodices are resorted to.  These are very comfortable and warm; they are made of some useful self-colored taffetas, and the sleeves are closed to the wrist.  For wearing out a skirt, the bodice of which has become unfashionable, they will be found exceedingly useful.
FASTENINGS FOR SHAWLS -- Very beautiful fastenings foe shawls and mantles are now made by the best Parisian jewelers; the form of the newest is long and rather wide, and they are almost always artistic.  The most aristocratic ladies do not, at this season of the year, appear with diamonds, or any other precious stones, except at court receptions.  For simple toilets they prefer artistic ornaments, which are called personal ornaments.  One duchess will wear upon her finger a ring, which, to all appearance, is worth nothing, but in reality has cost twelve hundred francs, being an engraved stone of the time of Henry II.; another countess will fasten her shawl with malachite, cut as a cameo, representing either a member of her own family or a fancy portrait, something unique, which can only be seen upon herself.  It does not suffice to have only plenty of money on the present day in order to be distinguished.  The value of ornaments consists not so much in the material out of which they are made as in their aritsitc worth.

   FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER.
GENERAL REMARKS -- As we have remarked before, chine silks are decidedly the newest and most popular style; and the light mauve gound, with a pattern over it of a darker shade of the same color, appears to meet with the largest share of approval.  The chintz chines also are in excellant taste, the many-colored designs, such as flowerets, spots, ets., being worked in delicate tints upon light grounds, form
dressy toilets.  These latter make up into charming dresses for young ladies.  As there is a pattern over them, they do not require so large an amount of ornamentation as when the silk is self-colored, the thick silk girdle cord, or a narrow plaiting, or ruche of a darker shade than the ground of the dress will be found sufficient trimming for a young lady, but with the larger patterned chines so suitable for married ladies the case is different.  They are much more elaborately ornamented.  The black lace insertion over white ribbon, although by no means novel, is more employed than any other style of ornament.  A light mauve chine, with a two-inch box-plaiting of the same round the edge of the skirt; three inches above this plaiting pieces of the black insertion over white satin ribbon about a quarter of a yard in length and three inches wide, should be arranged at equal distances, not in perpendicular lines, but obliquely; these are edged at each side with black ribbon-velvet edged with white, the sleeves and bodice being ornamented to correspond, with similar trimming in smaller dimensions.
  The fashion of scolloping the dress round the bottom of the skirt instead of hemming it, has become very popular, especially for poplins.  For simple morning toilets, the scollops are either bound with braid or velvet of a darker shade than the dress, or sometimes with black silk or velvet; for more dressy occasions, a ruche, or a narrow box-plaiting is placed upon the scollops, and we have seen them also bound with silk, and ornamental buttons placed upon the scollops.  With poplin dresses, paletots of the same are always worn; these are short, with a seam in the center of the back, and are cut to fall in to the figure without fitting it too closely; they are generally bound with velvet, or corded with silk--the gimp buttons down the front being very ornamental.
IN THE MAKE OF MORNING DRESSES there is nothing novel; many high bodices have been made lately with points; the waists in these cases are made longer, and the point at the back is rounded, and only simply corded.  With points neither sashes nor waistbands are worn, but should the bodice be rounded then either waistbands and buckles, or wide long sashes tied in falling loops at the side, are adopted.  The continued popularity of the postillion bodies  and of the short basque, only two inches deep, which we have already described, make us think that we shall gradually get to the old basques of some years back.
 

    We may here remark, for the benefit of amateur dressmakers, and for those who never manage to get their dresses to set high and neatly at the throat under the small linen collars, that a plan has been devised to accomplish this.  Instead of cording round the top as heretofore, a small band, of the same material as the dress, is arranged in the same manner as the strap which attaches the collar to a habit-shirt.  This band being cut separately, and then joined on to the high bodice, will be found easier to fit neatly round the throat than when the bodice is simply corded round the top, and this arrangement also suits admirably with the strap of insertion edged with narrow Valenciennes, and with lace ends now so much in vogue, instead of a collar.
   If a lady does not wish her shoulders to be seen, there are many tasteful inventions in fichus, lace coverings, etc.  The prettiest of them is the Venetian veste, made of black lace; it has a round basque edged with lace; it is high at the back, and low and open in front, being fastened with colored ribbons.  This Venetian veste is worn with all sorts of dresses, but more especially over light grenadine or crystalline gauze, both charming materials for evening wear.  The pelerines made of guipure alternating with narrow cherry or sky-blue ribbon-velvet, are also much worn over silk dresses.  Sleeves made of guipure also accompany the pelerine; these are sometimes looped up over the sleeve of the dress in the form of revers, the dress sleeve being very narrow, and cut with a seam to the elbow.
   The newest low bodices are all composed of white tulle or white silk in the upper part of them.  The most fashionable manner of making a black moire evening dress would be to make a low bodice first of white silk with two bouillonnes around the top of white tulle, and over this a black or moire corslet, the sleeve being formed entirely of white tulle.  This imparts a very light appearance to a heavy evening dress.
MANTLES, ETC. -- We have nothing to add to our last remarks on outer garments.  The large cape, the small cape, or pelerine, the short paletot, and the long jacket slightly drawn in at the waist, are still the favorite models.  Every maker gives them a distinctive character by variety of trimming, and sometimes a new name, but they are in reality the same articles.
   The black silk casaques, which partially fit the figure continue to be very popular.  Circular mantles have lately been introduced, and find great favor, as these half-fitting coverings are not found to be becoming to every figure.  In Paris the scarf made in the same material as the dress is very fashionable.  It is generally cut quite straight and not very long, but when it is preferred, in imitation of the Spanish mantilla, then it is composed of black silk and is trimmed with black lace.
BONNETS are not worn nearly so high as earlier in the season.  The insides or caps of bonnets are now mostly made of colored crepe or tulle.  It is a charming innovation for those ladies who possess a white skin.
THE MANNER OF DRESSING THE HAIR calls for much attention at the present day, and many are the inquiries addressed to us on this important subject.  The styles are various, and some are so elaborate that it is difficult to explain them.  For morning, the Grecian style is decidedly the most appropriate, as it is the most simple.  The hair in this case is all drawn to the back, where it is fastened up in a large knot, the larger and more massive- looking the better.  Bows or loops arranged over a cushion or hair frizette are more suitable to this style than a coil of plaits; three rows of narrow, black, or colored ribbon velvet are sometimes bound round the head as a fillet, and the hair at the back is covered with an invisible net.  For evening wear, either the net is trimmed with some bright-colored velvet ribbon, or a ruche composed of ribbon or crepe is worn at the top of the head.  This is arranged upon a piece of black ribbon wire covered over with black net; it should reach to the tips of the ears, and the ribbons at each end which tie it in at the left side should be about a yard long, the width of the ribbon not exceeding one inch and a half to two inches.  The hair is also frequently worn with either one or two long curls behind the ear, the front being waved.  Nets made of the same color as the hair, and so fine in texture as to be really invisible, will be much worn, not over the whole head as formerly, which was found to wear out the hair in front, but over the bows and loops of hair, of which the back of the head-dress is composed, so as to keep the hair smooth under the round hat.

      CHILDREN'S FASHIONS.

GENERAL REMARKS -- The fashionable style of dressing little girls from five to ten years of age is exceedingly picturesque.  A short, full, bright-colored skirt, composed of either silk or French delaine (more generally the latter), with a black velvet Swiss band, and a white bodice, proves a very becoming toilet to them.  The body may be made of either clear muslin, with narrow tucks at the back, and with insertion down the front, or it may be composed of jaconet muslin, and embroidered down the shoulders and front with Russian embroidery.  The sleeves are all made tight to the wrist, and round the throat there is a Valenciennes ruche, collars being inappropriate.  Short necklaces are as popular for little girls as they are for grown-up people.
 

 

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