PETERSON'S MAGAZINE
Vol. XLIII          PHILADELPHIA, MAY 1863         No.5.

EDITORIAL CHIT-CHAT

BETTER THAN ANY OTHER.-- The Bloomfield (Iowa) Clarion says:-- "To say that Peterson furnishes a better Magazine for the price than any other publisher, is but saying what every one should have known long ago, and what every magazine reader does know.  Send for it at once."  We may add, it is not too late to get up clubs.  Back numbers furnished, from the beginning of the year, if desired.  Recollect, this is the only Magazine that has not raised its price.  In spite of the advance in paper--about one hundred per cent.-- we continue to furnish Peterson at the old rates.
INCREASING IN BEAUTY.-- The enormous circulation of this Magazine is explained by the Viroqua (Ill.) Expositor, which says:-- "Peterson contains the finest and most lifelike steel engravings we ever beheld.  No one can look upon its beautiful pictures without astonishment at the expense and taste with which this Magazine is got up.  Peterson's Magazine is increasing in beauty and interest every month."
SHAWLS.-- Double woolen shawls in knitting or crochet are being worn, the upper point of which may be turned over the head like a hood.  These knitted or crochet shawls are lined with silk, and are trimmed with moss fringe and colored ribbon.
EMBROIDERY STAMPS.-- L.P. Borden, we are informed, continues to manufacture his celebrated Premium Embroidery and Braiding Stamps.  These stamps have become very popular through the United States and the Canadas.  There should be a set in every town.  They have never failed to give satisfaction to those who use them.  Stamps from any design made to order.  They will stamp on any material with accuracy.  Send and get a few dozen.  Address L.P. Borden, Massillon, Ohio;  or his agents, J.M. Pickering, No. 96 West Fourth street, Cincinnati, Ohio; Mrs. Sylvia Harrington, Potsdam, N.Y.; Miss Carrie P. Aydon, Wilmington, Del.; Mrs. F. Brooks, 838 North Tenth street, Philadelphia; Mrs. J.M. Newitt, Chicopee, Mass. Mrs. E.C. Borden is traveling agent.  Inking cushion, pattern book, and full instructions accompany each order.  Price, five dollars per dozen.
RIBBON FOR THE THROAT.-- A black or colored velvet ribbon is very generally worn round the throat, to which is appended a locket---the scented lockets which were lately introduced have found much favor; but these are again likely to be superseded by the small gold or silver buckle, which in Paris is now so frequently  employed for fastening the velvet around the throat.
A HINT ECONOMICAL.-- Many of our readers are, no doubt, possessors of black silk dresses, which have done good duty and service as dresses.  These may be converted into very warm and pretty petticoats, if a little time and patience be expended on them.  We will describe the style of petticoats we mean, and then our readers will see the arrangement of the same.  These, of course, may be made in new material as well as old, or alpaca may be substituted for the silk.  The silk should be cut into narrow gores, measuring about six inches at the bottom, and sloped off to about two inches at the waist.  Between each of the gores a thick piping of colored or white silk should be stitched, and the whole of the petticoat should be lined with eiderdown and good glazed lining.  These are amongst the favorite shapes for silk petticoats.
COSTUMES FOR BOYS.-- Little Parisian boys adopt either the Russian or the Scotch costume; the latter is the most popular among them, as the Prince Imperial often makes his appearance as a small Highlander.  The Russian dress is bordered with a band of cloth, and the over-coat is made either of cloth or velvet, and is always bordered with fur.  Plush is now frequently used in Paris as a material for children's dresses.  In London the usual style for little boys out of petticoats is the loose blouse and the Knickerbockers, with a leather band worn far below the waist; these are made in a variety of materials, but none look so well as either fine broad-cloth or black velvet.
A BEAUTIFUL DRESS.-- The colors most worn in taffeta silks are fawn-color, more or less yellow, Russia leather in various shades, violet, and bright blue.  Miss Dayton, the stylish daughter of the American Minister in Paris, wore, lately, at one of her father's crowded receptions, a very pretty dress of the shade of fawn-color, known as Cheveux de la Reine, having a bright golden tint through it.  The dress was made with a narrow flounce about six inches wide, bound with black velvet, and put on in plaits at the bottom of the skirt; over this, black velvet ribbon about an inch and a half wide, with a narrower velvet on either side, was placed so as to form lozenges interlacing one another, the velvet being stitched down on either side with a sort of herring-bone stitch in white silk, which threw out and relieved the effect of the black velvet.  The body was ornamented in a like manner, so as to imitate a figaro vest, the same trimming being prolonged on two long and widening ends which formed a sash behind.  We have described this costume minutely, as with a little ingenuity, and very little labor, many of the young lady readers of this Magazine may produce very pretty dresses by giving a little of their own time in working such a trimming, which, in a mantua-maker's bill, would, no doubt, occupy a very considerabkle position, without, perhaps, being as pretty or more effective.
 

     ART RECREATIONS.

IMPROVEMENT OF THE PHOTOGRAPH.-- To Color as in Life.  A New Discovery!  Newton's Prepared Colors for Albumen Pictures.  These colors are liquid, and with the directions that accompany each box, any person, though not an artist, may color the Cartes de Visite, or any Albumen picture, in a beautiful manner and very rapidly.  The pictures thus colored seem to have been done in the process of taking, the finish of the surface not being in the least disturbed, the shading perfect, colors rich and full.  The flesh color in particular is perfectly natural.  For coloring the fancy copies of engravings and our new flower studies, they are equally as well adapted as for the portraits from life.
CAUTION.-- Persons are cautioned against a worthless article offered for sale in shape and style similar to the genuine.  See that you get the "Newton's" Prepared Colors, with the name of the sole agents for the United States, J.E. Tilton & CO., Boston, on each box.
A neat black walnut box holds the colors in bottles, which are fixed to be easily used.  Price to artists, per box, $3.00, or with a large bottle of Reducing Liquid, $3.25. Address, J.E. Tilton & CO., 161 Wasgubgtib St., Boston.
Copies of Natural Flowers for Coloring or Study, also beautiful fancy Cards for coloring as above, by the quantity and single.

OUR NEW COOK-BOOK.
Every receipt in this cook-book has been tested by a practical housekeeper.
DESSERTS
Cold Pudding.-- Boil one quart of milk with a good-sized piece of vanilla in it.  Pour it when boiling over eight wellbeaten eggs.  Mix one tablespoonful of flour, quarter of a pound of butter, and half-pound of loaf-sugar together.  Pour over these ingredients the eggs and milk; strain the whole through a hair sieve into a jar, which must be placed in a stewpan of boiling water; keep stirring it over the fire until it becomes thick custard; add three-quarters of a twelve cent package of gelatine.  Let it stand until nearly cold.  Mix in preserved fruits.  Ornament the mould with fruits, and pour the mixture in gently.  Ice it well before serving.
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS
To Clean Hair-Brushes.-- The best plan is to use soda and cold water.  As hot water and soap very soon soften the hairs, and rubbing completes their destruction, use soda dissolved in cold water instead.  Do not set them near the fire, nor in the sun, to dry; but, after shaking them well, set them on the point of the handle in a shady place.
The Pomatum.-- Take the marrow out of two beef bones, put it into cold water, and let it remain until it is quite clean and white.  Before this is effected the water must be changed several times.  Dissolve and strain the marrow; then add four ounces of the best castor oil.  Beat both well together until cold, then add, before the pomatum becomes firm, half an ounce of strong scent.  This pomatum should be well rubbed into the skin of the head every night, and the hair should be well brushed both night and morning.
FASHIONS FOR MAY

GENERAL REMARKS.-- Foulards and alpacas are among the choicest goods of the season.  The colors range from the darkest to the most delicate tints.  The shades of leather and fawn are the sought for.  The latter color is not as becoming to fair complexions as to brunettes; but if trimmed with brown can be readily worn by blondes.  The plain foulards are of an excellent quality, but the figured ones are inferior to those which came a few years ago.  The materials which we have mentioned will take the place of French silks this season in consequence of the high price of the latter.  Grenadines, organdies, and, in fact, all the thin summer goods are very much risen in price, so that the present fashion of wearing old skirts, with Spanish and Zouave jackets, is a most convenient one.  Piques or Marseilles are among the most popular materials for morning dresses for ladies.  The figured piques are not pretty or effective this season; but the buff and white ones braided in black are charming.
TRIMMINGS are in every imaginable style.  Every lady can be her own arbiter of fashion in this respect.
SLEEVES are worn rather narrow, and mostly cut like a coat sleeve to the shape of the arm.
BODIES are usually made with small points both at the back and in front; but the postillion body, like that in our plate, is very much worn; and very narrow basques, too narrow almost to be termed such, are becoming fashionable.  We will describe the shape of the Postillion Jacket, as, doubtless, there are many of our subscribers who would like to have one.  The garment is stylish.  The bodice portion is made to fit the figure with two points in front like a dress bodice, and may be arranged to close at the throat or open with revers.  A very long basque is attached to the jacket behind, which is sloped off sharply at the hips.  The sleeve is usually of the coat shape, with a seam at the elbow, cut rather long, and a lace ruffle is generally the finish to the sleeves at the bottom.  We have seen these pretty jackets in velvet, silk, and cloth; and we may here add that they are very useful for wearing with old skirts, the bodices of which are worn out.  Those in velvet are decidedly the most stylish.
 

A VELVET ZOUAVE JACKET is very frequently worn at this season of the year over a white muslin skirt for evening toilet.  The jacket does not reach further than the waistband; and underneath it is worn a satin veste.  These Zouave jackets are convenient for wearing with light colored taffetas skirts, the bodices of which have either lost their freshness, or have become ancient in form.  A white lace or muslin veste can be worn instead of a satin one, and the Zouave can be trimmed with a black Maltese insertion, with white ribbon underneath it.  This style, although not novel, is a very favorite one.  It should be remembered that the sleeves of a velvet Zouave jacket follow the same rule as those of the high bodiced dress; they are made narrow, and if a white under-sleeve should be worn, it should likewise be cut with a seam to the elbow, so that it may set perfectly flat to the arm, and not cause a full or puffed appearance to the Zouave sleeve.  Very young ladies still patronize the Garibaldi bodice for evening demi-toilet.  A blue or pink grenadine, or foulard, or taffetas dress, with a plain low bodice, and a wide sash tied with hanging loops at the back, a full loose Garibaldi, made of either figured Brussels net, or finely embroidered muslin, with a ruche of Valenciennes lace round the throat, still continues to be a favorite style, and very becoming it proves to tall, slight, youthful figures, but should never be adopted by any others.
MORNING DRESSES still continue to be made in the same form as at the commencement of the winter, but the sleeves are altered.  The white under-sleeves, which rather resembled a balloon, upon each hand, which were highly starched, so as to make them stand out more effectively, and which lost their fresh appearance after the first half-hour they had been worn, and assumed a crumpled, untidy look-- these, we are happy to say, are at last banished.  The sleeve of the dress is now made narrow; it is the same breadth all the way down, but to form it, it is cut with a seam to the elbow.  A small ruche is arranged round the edge of the sleeve, and there are buttons as far as the elbow.  The sleeves of taffetas dresses for evening wear are also cut in this narrow form, but frequently they are left open as far as the elbow, and the narrow white undersleeves, which are cut in precisely the same manner as the dress sleeve, are trimmed up with broad Valenciennes or Alecon lace, which falls through and imparts a more dressy appearance to the toilet.  White under-sleeves for morning wear are made with a deep linen cuff, fastened with three studs, either composed of precious stones, or of gold.  For evening wear the cuff is made of lace and embroidered insertion; but fullings of any description are now never employed, as the under-sleeve should be as flat as possible.
PETTICOATS are now trimmed almost as much as dresses at the bottom.  They are usually ruffled, and the ruffles fluted.  Crinoline and steel hoops are also frequently ruffled, or at least have all the lower hoops covered with a piece of muslin, as this prevents the shape of the steel showing.
THE MANTILLAS which have as yet appeared are mostly round as in our engraved walking dress.  Of course the modes of trimming these mantles are immumerable.  The loose sacque is still a favorite, though not so new as the circular style.  Some are also cut deeper at the back and in front in the shawl shape, and richly ornamented with lace.
BONNETS continue to be of the shape worn during the winter, not quite so high in front, but still sufficiently so to admit of a great deal of trimming above the forehead.  They are very narrow at the sides.
CHILDREN'S FASHIONS
GENERAL REMARKS.-- Alpaca will be much used during the coming spring for children's dresses,  for little girls especially.  The manufacture of this fabric is now so beautiful that we can suggest nothing prettier.  Foulards will also, to a great extent, be in requisition for little people.  We have seen a pretty little alpaca dress, of a delicate shade of fawn.  It was made with three tiny flounces at the bottom of the skirt, corded with green.  The bodice, high, was trimmed to imitate a Spanish jacket, and the sleeves, with a seam, at the elbow, were arranged with a deep pointed cuff, also in green.  Another pretty little girl's dress was in black and white checked poplin, trimmed round the skirt with blue ruches, put on in vandykes.  The bodice, also high, was ornamented with ruches, to imitate a Swiss corsage.
Little girl's fashions follow, in a great measure, those which are invented for, and adopted by their mammas.  Simplicity in the matter is entirely lost sight of and in fact their toilets are exactly those of their mammas in miniature.  In London, many little girls up to eight years of age, wear their hair all loose and flowing down their backs, regardless of length or quantity.  It is never straight; but if not waved by nature, a wave is given to it by creping, or by any other artificial means which will produce the same effect.  Hats are universally worn by little girls; they are made of felt, straw, or Leghorn, and are ornamented with a tuft of feathers, exactly in the center of the front; black beaver hats of the sailor form with small red feathers in front, are the newest; a band of scarlet or black velvet is arranged straight round the crown.  Crimson cloaks are very general among them, and their dresses are still frequently made with a Garibaldi bodice.
 

 

 

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