March

PETERSON'S MAGAZINE *Vol. XLIII PHILADELPHIA, MARCH 1863 No.3.*

EDITORIAL CHIT-CHAT OUR FEBRUARY NUMBER.--The newspaper press pronounces our last number one of the most elegant we have ever issued. The Lapeer (Mich.) Republican says:--"Ahead of all others, Peterson's Magazine for February is received. We have so often spoken in its praise that we hardly know what to add; suffice it to say, it is in every respect a three dollar monthly, furnished for two dollars." The force of this eulogium is only fully understood when the enormous advance in paper is remembered. We are now paying just twice as much per ream for the white paper on which "Peterson" is printed than we paid a year ago; yet, as the Republican says, there is no falling off in the character or merits of the Magazine. In other words, we keep our promices, cost what it may. __________ DELAY IN OUR LAST NUMBER.-- In consequemce of the enormous increase of our edition, this year, engravers, printer, and colorists have been taxed to the utmost. It was a physical impossibility, indeed, to get off our February number, in time, to all our subscribers. We make this explanation in apology for the delay. In future, all subscribers, whether East or West, will receive their numbers promptly. __________ BLUE FOR HEAD-DRESSES.-- A brilliant blue is very fashionable for head-dresses. The head-dress is formed into a band in shape resembling a low diadem, studded with large pearls, and with a tuft of white feathers between the creped bandeaux in the center of the forehead. To fair complexions and oval faces this style is exceedingly becoming. Young unmarried ladies are following the example of their seniors, and adorning their heads with winged insects. Many butterflies are made in Paris of pearls, with diamond eyes. These are to be worn lighting at the top of a coronet, and a white rose low on the neck at the back. Nets seemingly never will go out of fashion. Many ladies still evince a partiality for them, for evening demi-toilet wear; the newest are made not of chenille, but of broad, flat, gold braid. This is not netted, but is formed into squares, and kept in place by a tiny loop of violet or black narrow chenille. Black silk braid, with white edges, is also made into nets in a similar way. __________ NOVELTIES IN PARIS.--In Paris the mythological head-dresses are all the rage. The Psyche head-dress is charming. The hair is waved upon the forehead in bandeaux a la Vierge; a second bandeau is then formed which is turned back, and then joins the first. A bow of hair forms a diadem in front, and in this bow three diamond stars ar arranged. The Hebe head-dress is also a mythological one. In this the hair is turned straight back from the temples, and small regular ringlets are arranged all round the forehead with a butterfly with open wings alighting in the middle. It was the Empress who introduced the butterfly into the head-dress; hers had beautifful azure wings worked with gold. Now everybody is wishing for a butterfly, and everybody is ordering one. The humming-bird alone disputes with it the favors of fashion. These ornaments fetch fabulous prices. __________ REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS Springs of Action. By Mrs. C.H.B. Richards. 1 vol., 12 mo. New york: Harper & Brothers.--The author of this superior little work is unusually qualified for the task she has undertaken. It is oly necessarey to give some of the heads of her chapters to show how useful a book she has prepared. They are: "Health," "Industry," "Cheerfulness," "Generosity," "Justice." "Earnestness," "Reverence," "Patience," "Magnanimity," "Physical Consciousness," "Delicacy," "Tact," "Amiability," "Dignity," etc., etc. Mrs. Richards tells some plain truths. She is a perspicuous, graceful, and, at times, eloquent writer. The work is dedicated to the author's sister, Mrs. Alice B. Haven, who is herself one of the most pure-minded and gifted of American female writers. My Diary North and South. By William Howard Russell. 1 vol., 12 mo. Boston: T.O.H.P. Burnham.-- This volumn is made up of extracts from the diaries and notebooks which the author, who was the correspondent of the "London Times," kept while he was in this country. To those who are curious to learn Mr. Russell's opinions, in full, of America, North and South, we advise the purchase of the book. Mr. Russell was full of conceit, and he often misrepresents America; but, on the other hand, he occasionally tells home truths. OUR NEW COOK-BOOK. Every receipt in this cook-book has been tested by a practical housekeeper FISH Fish Fritters.-- Take the remains of any fish which has been served the preceeding day, remove all the bones, and pound it in a mortar, add bread crumbs and mashed potatoes in equal quantities. Mix together half a teacupful of cream, with two well-beaten eggs, some cayenne pepper, and anchovy sauce. Beat all up to a proper consistency, cut into small cakes, and fry them in boiling lard.	SOUPS To Make Pea-Soup.-- To four quarts of water, put in one quart of split peas, three slices of lean bacon (or a ham bone if at hand), and some roat beef bones, one head of celery, one turnip, and two carrots, cut into small pieces, a little salt and pepper; let all these simmer gently until the quantity is reduced to two quarts. Run it through a culender, with a wooden spoon, mix a little flour in water, and boil it well with the soup, and slice in another head of celery, adding cayenne pepper, and a little more salt. Fry slices of bread in some butter until they assume a light brown color, cut them into small squares, and hand them with the soup, as well as a small dishful of powdered sage. __________ HEALTH DEPARTMENT DURATION OF, AND TIME FOR SLEEP.--Sleep ought to be in proportion to the age of the infant, and this salutary refreshment should continue to fill up the greater part of a child's existence. A continued watchfulness of twenty-four hours would prove destructive. After the age of six months, the periods of sleep, as well as all other animal functions, may in some degree be regulated; yet even then a child should be suffered to sleep the whole night, and several hours both in the morning and afternoon. Mothers and nurses should endeavor to accustom infants, from the time of their birth, to sleep in the night, preferably to the day, and for this purpose they ought to remove all external impressions which may disturb their rest--such as noise, light, etc.; but especially not to obey every call for taking them up, and giving food at improper times. After the second year of their age, they will not instinctively require to sleep in the forenoon, though after dinner it may be continued till the third and fourth year of life, if the child shows a particular inclination to repose, because, till that age, the full half of its time may safely be allotted to sleep. From that period, however, it ought to be shortened for the space of one hour with every succeeding year, so that a child of seven years old may sleep about eight, and not exceeding nine hours; this proportion may be continued to the age of adolescence, and even manhood. RESTLESSNESS AT NIGHT.-- Infants are sometimes very restless at night, and it is generally owing either to cramming them with a heavy supper, tight night clothes, or being overheated by too many blankets. It may also proceed from putting him to sleep too early. He should be kept awake till the family are going to rest, and the house is free from noise. Undressing and bathing will weary and dispose him for sleep, and the universal stillness will promote it. This habit, and all others, depend on attention at first. Accustom him to regular hours, and if he has a good sleep in the forenoon and afternoon, it will be easy to keep him brisk all the evening. It is right to offer him drink when a young infant, and more solid, though simple food, when he is going to bed, after he is two or three months old; but do not force him to receive it; and never let anything but the prescription of a physician, in sickness, tempt the nurses to give him wine, spirits, or any drug to make him sleep. Milk and water, whey, or thin gruel, is the only fit liquor for little ones, even when they can run about. The more simple and light their diet and drink, the more they will thrive. Such food will keep the body regular, and they cannot be long well if that essential point is neglected. __________ FASHIONS FOR MARCH GENERAL REMARKS.--The March winds are so bleak that there has but little that is new appeared as yet. Dresses are now made much flatter and narrower on the hips, and are rarely trimmed, except round the bottom of the skirt; and long sleeves grow narrower daily. For the promenade, skirts of dresses, when of rich materials, are generally without trimming, or with as little as possible. Bodies are made high, with the waist slightly pointed, sometimes with two short points; small pointed capes of velvet are being introduced, as are also berthes set on the same as on a low body. Some dresses are made with Postillion jackets, which quite plain. Sleeves are mostly made shaped at the elbow, whether wide and open, or of a closer form. The low bodies are now cut extremely low on the shoulder, but not so much so either at the front or back. The lace tucker should correspond with the lace with which the dress is trimmed, and should be tied in front as well as at the back with black or colored narrow ribbon velvet. Some dress-makers tie the tucker on the shoulders as well, but this is not necessary for its well-fitting. Low bodices as well as high ones are made extremely short at the waist; the short sleeves are flatter and far less puffed out than they were last winter--sometimes they are even made quite flat, and are simply trimmed. There is a very pretty style of UNDER-SLEEVE, which is both new and comfortable. It consists of a very deep tight cuff, reaching half-way up the arm, and fastened on the upper part of the arm by six or seven tiny gilt buttons. These cuffs are sometimes embroidered round in a color, and are attached to an ordinary full sleeve, of course shorter than usual, in consequence of the depth of the cuff.	MUSLIN CRAVATS are, to a great extent, taking the place of collars for in-door wear; some being knotted, and others tied in large bows. They are made in lace, or embroidered muslin edged with lace; and, arranged in the latter mode, are called in Paris the "Cravate Avocat." These little cravats are in great vogue for out-door toilets, when they were worn with the open mantles with revers. Charming little novelties in the way of silk cravats for ladies arre daily appearing. Some of the cravats for ladies are daily appearing. Some of the carvats are perfectly straight, stitched at each edge with white; others are shaped at the ends, and ornamented with an embroidery of silk or beads; and many of them are futher enriched with a tiny blonde or narrow lace. HEAD-DRESSES differ widely from the heavy wreaths lately worn. A puff of white tulle, a bunch of moss-roses, a branch of foliage, with the hair curled or creped between, arranged to suit the style of face, is now the most fashionable style. Birds'-nests, humming-birds, butterflies, and dragon flies are all called into requistion to form this irregular, fanciful head-gear. Shoes for evening wear are now made of satin or silk of the exact color and shade of the dress, have high heels, and are ornamented in front with black lace rosettes. Fans of carved ivory without any gilding, with black or white lace lined with silk or satin the exact shade of the dress, are now considered in better taste than any other style of fan. STRIPED PETTICOATS are the most fashionable ones in Paris; black and white, red and white, or violet and black, with the stripes running downward instead of across, and with a narrow band of self-colored cloth or silk, stitched in white silk in an arabesque or classical design just above the hem. This is worn over a cage, which has a starched white flounce round the bottom of it. These cages are more patronized by the Parisians than any other kind of crinoline or steel petticoat. Colored stockings now invariably accompanuy the colored petticoat; they should correspond with it exactly both in color and style. Violet is a favorite color both for petticoats and stockings, especially since it can be now manufactured fast, and warranted "to stand any amount of washing." __________ CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. GENERAL REMARKS.--The new shade called "cuir," or leather color, is now being introduced amongst articles of children's attire, for even in their tiny garments it seems necessary to follow, to a certain extent, the dictates of fashion. We have seen some pretty pelisses in blue poplin trimmed with a broad crossway band of "cuir" colored poplin, and little frocks made entirely in the latter shade, ornamented with velvet to match. Plush, always a favorite trimming for children's pelisses, is still much worn, and bands of swansdown are also vey suitable and appropriate. Since our remarks of last month two very pretty novelties have made their appearance in little boys' hats. One shape very much resembles a jockey's cap, and is made with a peak in front, and trimmed round with a band of fancy velvet. The material of which the hats are composed is velvet, and they are made in all shades, and are generally ornamented with velvet having a Greek design in white. This style of hat or cap is extremely neat and uncommon, because there are no feathers or fussy trimming of any kind, and on that account would not soon get out of order. The other shaped hat is round, trimmed with a turned-up quilling or fluting of velvet, lined with white, and piped with the same. The fluting of velvet, which was cut on the crossway of the material, and consequently stood out very nicely, was carried right round the bend of the cap. For babies in arms(not infants) the white felt hats, bound and trimmed with dark blue velvet, and white feathers tipped with blue, are very suitable. This hat, worn with a blue poplin pelisse trimmed with blue velvet, makes a pretty and stylish costume. For little girls we have seen some charming bonnets in quilted white satin and silk, made soft everywhere; these were trimmed with bright blue or cerise velvet. Now that mammas are decking themselves in scarlet cloth cloaks, their little daughters must, of course, be dressed in the same manner; so we see now "The Little Red Riding-Hood" or gipsy cloaks in scarlet clothe, made for little girls of all ages. They are certainly prettier for little people than for ladies, unless worn as a carriage garment, and then it matters not how striking or particular any article of dress is. The shape of the little scarlet cloak is a simple circular, to which is attached a hood with streamers. The cloaks are generally bound with black velvet and the bow and ends(which are cut nearly as long as the cloak) are of the same material. __________ MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS Ginger Ale--To ten gallons of water put twelve pounds of sugar, six ounces of bruised ginger (unbleached is the best). Boil it one hour, put it into a barrel, with one ounce of hops and three or four spoonfuls of yeast. Let it stand three days; then close the barrel, putting in one ounce of isinglass. In a week it is fit for use. Draw out in a jug and use as beer. Cough Mixture--Take extract of liquorice, three ounces; burnt sugar, four ounces; boiling water, two and a half pints; tartar emetic, fifteen grains; laudanum. six drachms; and nitrate of potash, one ounce and a half. Dose for children, half to one teaspoonful; for adults, from one to two teaspoonfuls.

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