April 1863

PETERSON'S MAGAZINE
Vol. XLIII PHILADELPHIA, APRIL 1863 No.4.

EDITORIAL CHIT-CHAT

"FURTHER AHEAD THAN EVER."
The Republican (N.Y.) says of our last number:--"The Cook-Book is a very important feature of 'Peterson,' and one peculiar to that Magazine. There is each month a long list of recipes, each of which has been tested by a practical housekeeper. 'Peterson' has not raised its price, and consequently stands further than ever ahead of all other Lady's Magazines."

A SAFE WAGER.--The strongest gentleman in the company may be safely challenged to break a soda water bottle in an empty stocking by swinging it against the wall with all his force. If the experiment is new to him, he will probably undertake it. When, by a vigorous swing, he has smashed the bottle, as he undoubtedly will, his exultation will be a little diminished on being reminded that it was to be broken in an "empty" stocking, and that a stocking containing a bottle is not empty. At sea, where this is a common trick, the usual articles are a wine bottle and an "empty" bread-bag.

REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS The Employment of Women; a Cyclopedia of Women's work. By Virginia Penny. 1 vol., 12 mo. Boston: Walker, Wise & Co.--The principal object of this book is to point out the various avocations open to women, the remuneration to be expected, and the advantages or disadvantages of the particular employment. Viewed in this aspect, it is a work of very great value.

The Ice-Maiden, and other Tales. By Hans Christian Anderson. 1 vol., 16 mo. Philada: F. Leypodt.--This little volume does great credit to the taste of of the publisher. It is printed on tinted paper, with a photograph from an original drawing, and is bound in vellum cloth, with gilt top. The translation is by Miss Fanny Fuller, and is a very credible performance.

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. To Crimp the Hair.--Damp it well and brush it out, then take a small lock of it, and plait it tightly in out and over both sides of a hair-pin; when you have plaited all the lock in, turn up the ends of the hair-pin, so as to secure the hair from escaping. The pin must be held upright whilst you are twisting the hair in and out. Another way is to damp the hair, divide a lock into three, leaving one piece much thinner than the other two. Plait it up simply, hold the thin piece in one hand, and with the other run the remaining two up to the top. But this latter process will not cause the hair to be so regularly crimped as the former. Elder-flower water makes a refreshing wash for the face; glycerine diluted with rose-water is also good, when the skin is rough or chapped; and, as for face-powder, we should think that white starch pounded very finely would be the most harmless one to use; we think, however, that no powder at all is better than any.

Burns or scalds.--A very simple and perfectly efficacious remedy is salad oil, beaten up with the whites of eggs in a bowl, into which dip pieces of old linen; to be applied to the parts burnt or scalded, and keep changing as the linen cloths applied become warm. In a very serious and extensive scald, the relief afforded in a few hours was attended with permanent success, and where there was some delay in procuring medical advice. This simple French remedy must be preserved in till the sufferer finds relief from it, which he will do in the course of a few hours, when the blisters will be found to subside. The linen cloths applied must be large enough to cover the injured parts.

To Preserve Bulbs.--When the bulbs have ceased flowering, take them out of the water and lay them in the open air and in the shade to dry. After a few days they may be removed into an airy room; and having remained uncovered until they are moderately hardened, the decayed parts, the loose skin, fibres, etc., should be cleared away, the offsets removed, and the bulbs put into some dry place, where they may be secure from mice. They may be preserved in this manner until it is time to replant them. The offsets should be put into pots; two, three, or more, according to their size, being put into one pot.

Pomades, etc., for the Hair.-- Cocoa-nut oil melted with a little olive oil, and scented as preferred. Sage tea is good for a wash; or warm water. A very good pomade is also made of: white wax, half an ounce; spermaceti, half an ounce; olive oil, six ounces. Different sorts of hair require different treatment; for what agrees with one, makes the other harsh and dry. Cold cream is often used; it is made with a quarter of an ounce of spermaceti, and a quarter of an ounce of white wax; dissolve by putting the basin in which you are going to mix it in hot water; then add one ounce of oil of almonds and rose-water.

Dentrifice.--Rye carbonized and finely pulverized, used daily as a tooth-powder, soon stops caries, and promptly cures the small abscesses which are often formed on the gums.

OUR NEW COOK-BOOK. Every receipt in this cook-book has been tested by a practical housekeeper. MEATS Beef Hash.--Chop up three or fiour onions, fry them brown, and add a teaspoonful of flour, a little good broth, seasoning of salt, pepper, and a sprig of parsley chopped very fine; and mix all well over the fire. Mince the beef very fine, add it to the sauce, and cook all gently for a short time. At the last thicken the gravy, and serve the hash with sippets. A circle of poached eggs may be added.

Timbals.--This dish, if cooked with care, is an excellant plan for using up cooked meat. Boil some maccaroni in milk and water for five minutes. Butter a plain mould well, and place the maccaroni in rows all round it; then fill the mould with forcemeat made with either chicken or veal, or any other dressed meat which may be at hand, adding to it a little ham or bacon, pounded very fine and seasoned with the rind of a lemon grated, three small leaves of sage, chopped very fine; two cloves, a pinch of mace and nutmeg, an onion chopped small, salt and pepper to taste. Mix all these ingredients well together with two eggs. The whole must be steamed for one hour and a quarter, and served with white sauce.

DESSERTS Dutch Flummery.--Put one ounce of isinglass or gelatine into a jug, pour upon it a full pint of boiling water, and let it stand for half an hour, or until it is dissolved; then put it into a brass saucepan, adding the peel of one lemon and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, half-pint of sherry, and loaf-sugar to taste. Let it simmer or just boil up together; when this is done, put it into a cool place until it is lukewarm, when add the juice of one lemon. Run it through a jelly-bag into moulds. This is a simple but an excellant sweet.

Receipt for Syllabub.--Put a quart of cider into a bowl, grate a nutmeg into it, sweeten with fine sugar; then add some new milk, and pour some cream over it.

CHILDREN'S FASHIONS GENERAL REMARKS--Some dresses for little girls took our fancy lately. The skirts were trimmed round the bottom with a quilled flounce of cashmere, having a tiny black velvet run on the bottom and heading, and rows of quilled flounces were placed up the front of the skirt en tablier. The cape had two rows of this quilling all round, and the cashmere was so evenly and regularly fluted, that no prettier trimming could be imagined.
Little girls, like their mammas, are wearing all kinds of fancy jackets and waistcoats, and arranged in bright colors, they make charming toilets for little people. For evening party costume they are bery convenient, as a child may be made to look smart and dressy without uncovering her shoulders and arms--a proceeding which is always objectionable when the wearer is accustomed to high frocks and long sleeves.
The Swiss bodices (not pretty for grown people) are charming for little girls. They consist of a stiff bodice, covered with silk, and made withoout sleeves; a chemisette and full puffed sleeves are put on, and over this the Swiss bodice, which is sometimes tied with a bow and ends of ribbon, and sometimes has a narrow ruche across the shoulders to imitate a strap.
We will now proceed to give a few simple and inexpensive toilets suitable for little girls' evening costume, as at this particular season mammas will be puzzling their brains what to make or order for their little ones to make them look nice.
A frock of white grenadine muslin, trimmed at the bottom of the skirt with two fluted flounces, ornamented with a row of narrow velvet, either blue, cerice, or black. A sash tied behind (like the Medici ceinture) of the same color as the vel vet. Bow of velvet for the hair to correspond. Another suitable toilet, but not so dressy, for little girls from four to ten years of age:--A light checked silk skirt, trimmed with three rows of velvet. Swiss bodice, chemisette, and sleeves of sprigged muslin. FASHIONS FOR APRIL GENERAL REMARKS.--The weather keeps so cold that but little has yet appeared in the way of novelties. Marseilles and pique come in all the shades of buff, drab, and pearl, printed in black in various patterns around the bottom of the skirt to imitate braiding. These are very beautiful, and have the same effect as braided dresses without the trouble. Silks of one color are the most stylish, though, for young ladies especially, nothing can be more beautiful than the tiny narrow plaid French silks. Some few plain foulards are in the market, but these are very apt to spot and to rumple soon, though they are very beautiful when new. The printed foulards are so poor that they are no longer worth buying; and most of them this spring are sold at one dollar per yard. The India silks are the cheapest, when they can be procured, though for a few years back but few have been imported.

The most serviceable dress, for walking especially, is the alpaca. This material comes in the various shades of brown, gray, and quite plain, and also with small black plaids over the grave colors.
The style of trimming the skirts of dresses has undergone but little change. The last new body which we saw was made with three points at the back, and four in front. This was particularly pretty.

SLEEVES are usually made quite close to the arm to below the elbow, where they widen out in the funnel shape, or with a wide cuff.

A BEAUTIFUL STYLE of dress for home wear is the Empress' Veste, which is worn over a white braided foulard bodice, with a colored taffetas skirt. The Empress' Veste is generally made either of black velvet or black corded taffetas, embroidered on the seams with black silk and jet.

A BEAUTIFUL TRIMMING for a party dress, one which is very effective, and can be easily arranged at a trifling cost, can be made of ivy. Artificial ivy is not wanted; long natural sprays are the best--taking care to choose those which consist of well-shaped variegated leaves. These should be well dusted, and then cotton wool, slightly saturated with sweet oil, should be delicately applied. This will give the leaves a bright lustrous appearance, and, to some extent, preserve them from shriveling up. Loops and knots of Roman or composition pearls should be arranged every now and again among the ivy leaves. A wreath in the same style, high in front, and with long ends at the back, and long loops of pearls falling upon the hair, has an exceedingly graceful effect. These ivy ornamentations should be worn with a white lace or white tarletane dress, and if skillfully arranged, will be found at this season of the year in as good taste and as effective for a young lady's ball toilet as the more expensive artificial wreaths and garlands. Nets are still worn; many ladies hold as tenaciously to them as they did to the frisettes of yore. Soft scarlet chenille, without any wire in it, netted over a mesh half an inch wide, and then trimmed round the front with a ruche of black lace, with a scarlet bow at the top, is very appropriate for deme-toilet evening wear.

SHOES AND SLIPPERS, whether for morning or evening wear, are now always ornamented with either a flat bow and large buckle in the center of the front, or with a large quilled satin rosette, quillings of satin ribbon, and ruchings of black lace also frequently adorn the sides.

APRONS.--Now that dresses are made with short waists, aprons are very general for home wear. They are made short, and are very fancifully ornamented. Black glace silk and black moire antique are the favorite materials of which these aprons are composed. As we said before, they are short, and are generally rounded at the corners, although some few are made square. Those made of moire antique look well trimmed with three rows of black velvet ribbon, about an inch wide, with a white satin edge. Upon each row steel buttons are sewn. The pockets, which are slanting, are trimmed to corespond. Black glace silk aprons are sometimes ornamented with bands of black velvet, with the Greek design attached in white silk; others with a quilling of black silk all round, headed with a band of jet. All have small pockets in front, and are plaited into a very narrow compass at the waist. Small black velvet aprons are also made, trimmed with bands ornamented with small steel beads; in short, there is an endless variety in these small articles of dress.

It is very difficult to make
UNDER-SLEEVES to suit the present style of dress sleeves, which are made so narrow that hardly a frill of lace can be seen underneath; this is awkward, as it is impossible to present a dressy appearance in a high dress without showing a considerable portion of the white under-sleeve. For this reason white bodices have been more popular this winter than ever. Low bodices are frequently made of white silk, and over them is worn a high canezou. These canezous are arranged in a thousand different ways; the most simple are made with tucks, and are suitable for young girls; others with alternating rows of Valenciennes insertion and muslin bouillonnes. Some, too, are made with puffings of tulle, with narrow colored velvet ribbon run between, and with a lace collar. The sleeves have a seam to the elbow, and have puffings like the rest of the canezou. It is truly a pretty fashion; all these white bodices have a pleasant effect in a drawing room. White is cheerful and gay- looking, and very becoming; therefore ladies should wear as much of it as is possible in their toilets.

MANTILLAS are more of a circular shape than formerly, though the short jackets are still worn. Next month we hope to have something decidedly new to chroncle in this department.

BONNETS will not be worn so high on the top, still sufficiently so to warrant a good deal of blonde and plenty of flowers over the face. The flowers are, however, not placed so directly over the forehead as formerly, but a little to one side.

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